2021 Metzker Family Estates 'Winemaker's Cuvee' Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast

Sonoma Coast is one of California's loosest appellations. It runs from the actual coastline inland far enough to swallow the Russian River Valley whole. Usually that's a warning label. Here it's the entire idea.

Metzker Family Estates has bought fruit rather than land since 2014. That lets winemaker John Martin cherry-pick sites instead of defending one. This wine takes three of them: Thorn Ridge on the dry-farmed coast, Terra de Promissio in the Petaluma Gap, Arnoud in the Middle Reach. Two of those three he also bottles on their own.

Six clones went into the blend — 115, 777, 667, 23, plus Swan and LaTâche selections. Ninety percent destemmed, ten percent whole cluster, fermented in stainless steel. Then 17 months in 65% new French oak. That's a serious amount of new wood for Pinot Noir, and you can taste it. Spiced cherry, vanilla and bergamot tea on the nose. Plum, strawberry, bramble and allspice on the palate, with cocoa on the finish.

At 14.6% this is not a delicate Pinot, and I wouldn't treat it like one. Give it an hour open and serve it at 60 degrees, not cellar-cold. Put it next to duck or mushrooms rather than salmon. They made 250 cases. That's the ceiling.