2021 Chateau Arricau-Bordes Madiran

The magnificent Château d'Arricau-Bordes traces its origins to 1150, when the first stones of this seigneurial estate were laid in the Vic-Bilh, with the Pyrenees rising in the distance.

A classified historic monument, restored in the 20th century after decades of neglect, it has helped write the noble reputation of the Madiran appellation. Today its ancestral vineyard — around 14 hectares spread across a dozen parcels of clay-limestone and rolled-pebble soils — is tended by a small team of artisan winegrowers under Plaimont, the celebrated cooperative that champions the indigenous grapes and foothill terroirs of France's South West. The work is largely by hand, yields are kept low, and the aim is balance and elegance rather than sheer power.

That philosophy shows in the glass. Built around Tannat — the formidable native grape of Madiran — and rounded out with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the wine is deep red with purple reflections and a perfume of blackberry and cassis lifted by black pepper and clove over subtle oak.

Where many Tannats can be austere, this cuvée is velvety and supple, its ripe fruit wrapping fine, harmonious tannins through a long, satisfying finish. It's a Madiran with real character that stays remarkably approachable — a fine introduction to the appellation and a natural partner to hearty Gascon cooking.