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Franz Prager, the co-founder of the Vinea Wachau, had already earned a reputation for his wines when Toni Bodenstein married into the family. Bodenstein’s passion for biodiversity and old terraces, coupled with brilliant winemaking, places Prager in the highest echelon of Austrian producers. Ried Hinter der Burg, meaning “behind the old castle” of Weißenkirchen, is a southeast-facing site with sedimentary soils, rich in humus and containing “shotte” stones from the old Danube. These are perfect growing conditions for Gruner Veltliner, producing a complex and refreshing white wine.
Federspiel is a designation of ripeness for dry wines, a term used exclusively by members of the Vinea Wachau. Federspiel wines must be unchaptalized and fall between 11.5 and 12.5% ABV. The grapes are hand-harvested, typically in October, and are sent directly to press where they spontaneously ferment in stainless-steel tanks.
Prager’s stylistic signature is that of aromatic complexity coupled with power and tension. High-density planting and long hang times ensure ripe fruit flavors and concentration, yet allowing leaves to shade the fruit lend vibrant aromatics of grasses, herbs, and wildflowers. Minerality is a constant feature of any Prager wine.
“Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Delicate herbal and spicy underlaid white apple fruit, a hint of pineapple, mineral touch, a hint of lime zest. Substantial, elegant, fine extract sweetness, mineral and balanced, fresh acid curve, lemony touch, a finesse-rich food companion with a salty finish.” ~93 Falstaff
Very cool, fresh nose with plenty of lime and mint. Sleek palate that’s very linear and precise. So much vitality at the filigree finish. Drink or hold. ~92 James Suckling
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