2020 Weingut Emmerich Knoll Wachau Ried Pfaffenberg Steiner Riesling

Meet Emmerich Knoll III, a passionate ambassador for Austria’s Wachau wine region. He farms 37 acres of family vineyards, producing wines that beautifully showcase the unique Unterloiben terroir—home to some of Austria’s most celebrated vineyards. For over three generations, the Knoll family has proudly owned and operated this treasured winery.

While their focus is on Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, they also grow small amounts of Rivaner, Gelber Traminer, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay, making their offerings diverse and exciting.

As a proud member of “Vinea Wachau Nobilis Districtus”—an elite association of Wachau winemakers following strict quality standards—Knoll Winery consistently produces wines that earn top spots on Michelin restaurant including the legendary 3-star Michelin restaurant, The French Laundry.

And about that famous label? While some jokingly call it the “exploding Jesus,” it actually depicts St. Urban, based on a painting by renowned Austrian artist Siegfried Stoitzner. You can see the original hanging in the Knoll family’s 400-year-old restaurant, Loibnerhof.

The Wachau, less than 15 miles long and just an hour from Vienna, is one of Austria’s most celebrated wine regions. Its steep, stone-terraced vineyards rise along the north bank of the Danube River, creating a breathtaking landscape and ideal conditions for winemaking.

Emmerich Knoll’s Pfaffenberg vineyard feels every bit like a Wachau site with its steep terraces, rocky soils, and proximity to the Danube. Yet, due to historical decisions, it’s officially part of the Kremstal region. Before the Vinea Wachau association, the nearby city of Krems was seen as the heart of Wachau winemaking. However, Wachau growers wanted to focus on their unique Urgestein soils and distance themselves from Krems merchants, leading to the exclusion of vineyards like Pfaffenberg.

Despite the divide, Pfaffenberg and Wachau’s Loibenberg vineyard share much in common—steep terraces and ancient rocky soils. While Pfaffenberg produces softer, approachable wines, Loibenberg is known for structured, spicy expressions. The similarities between the two highlight how Pfaffenberg truly embodies the Wachau spirit, even if it falls outside the official boundary.

100% Riesling. See Critical Reviews for detailed tasting notes

An astonishingly ripe and exotic dry riesling for the 2020 vintage. There's so much pineapple, mango and vanilla in here, it makes you feel like you're on vacation on Hawaii or Tahiti. Very concentrated, the vibrant acidity wrapped in considerable richness. Creamy, dreamy finish with discreet tannins adding a great counterpoint. Drink or hold. ~96 James Suckling

Light golden yellow, silver reflections. Mineral, fine nuances of yellow tropical fruit, hints of peach and mango, fine honey touch, candied orange zest. Juicy, elegant, good complexity, mineral with good persistency, a balanced food wine, good ageing potential. ~95 Falstaff

Enticing, with bright honeysuckle and citrus notes leading the way, backed by vibrant acidity and mineral backbone. The midpalate is marked by a wave of spice, including white pepper, cardamom and allspice. Quinine notes mark the long, mouthwatering finish. ~93 Wine Enthusiast

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